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Rolex C&I Bracelets, USA Made Oyster and Jubilee Bracelets

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:43 pm
by springer
C&I Oyster (USA made, rivet bracelets)

The USA Rolex Oyster, rivet bracelets ( so called due to the distinct rivet heads used to attach the links) were made from the 1950s through the end of the 1970s – possibly 1979 being the last year. There are no end link numbers for the C&I bracelets and no model numbers stamped on the bracelets. (The end links are permanently attached to the bracelets by crimping them on at the last link.) There are markings on one of the clasp blades that do help identify the C&I bracelet. When examining the clasp, look for the ROLEX stamp, Rolex coronet and the C&I logo on one of the blades. Normally, to the right of the C&I stamp are the date stamps which are two digits indicating the year of production for the bracelet - i.e. 59, 68, 69, 78 etc. Most of the time, you will also find another number (possibly two) stamped near the year which designates a month, i.e. 5, 7, 1 etc. The number “1” would correspond to January, “2” for February and so on. A couple photos of the rivet C&I bracelet are attached below.

USA Jubilee (oval link bracelets)

There were at least a couple manufacturers for the USA Jubilees and they are noted for their distinct, solid, oval-link shape – unlike the folded Jubilee links used on the Swiss 6251 Jubilees. Most USA oval-link clasps do not have a date code on the clasp although I have seen it a couple times. When they are dated, it can be found on the top edge of the clasp blade that does not have any additional stampings, trademarks or other writings or script. There are no end link numbers or model numbers on these bracelets.

There are two variations of clasps, the first variation was used during the 1960s and has a larger coronet with the coronet remaining completely on the clasp and distinct gaps between the circular points of the coronet and the arms of the coronet. The second variation has a protruding, smaller coronet that sticks off the end of the clasp. Both styles are depicted below. I believe the first variation was used until sometime during the later half of the 1960s when the manufacturer transitioned to the second variation of the Jubilee clasp. The actual oval links look the same on both Jubilee bracelets regardless of the clasp.

(CLICK ON THE PHOTOS TO BYPASS THE SCROLLING BARS. CLICK THEM A SECOND TIME TO REDUCE THE PHOTO SIZE.)

Re: Rolex C&I Bracelets, USA Made Oyster and Jubilee Bracele

Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 1:41 am
by Captain9
Interesting info here that will definitely help with a future purchase. Thanks!